Follow these steps for guaranteed wealth. Seriously.

 

Make fun of this guy and his fellow investment advisors all you want, but what they lack in sexy they more than make up for in forbearance.

I need an investment policy? (yawn) Spare me, please. I just want to be rich.

An investment policy sounds like something that’s calibrated during long, torturous hours in someone’s corner office. Where you’re sitting across from a prim and effete financial advisor, fresh out of business school, all proud of his MBA and his new job and those reams of theoretical knowledge practically spilling out of his overcoiffed head. Do you seriously need that?

Almost certainly not. If you do, most likely you’re already rich and have better things to do than read a blog. In that case, you need an accountant, maybe a tax lawyer. A portfolio manager? Go away now.

Here’s a quiet truth about personal finance and many of the industries that have arisen surrounding it: there’s not a tremendous difference between the professionals and you. As a discipline, personal finance is similar to sociology and women’s studies in that there’s almost no hands-on knowledge involved. Unlike petroleum engineering, where you have to get oil on your fingers and have some physical representation of your data. Or medicine, where you have to treat real patients with ailments and sometimes risk their lives.  What separates a professional financial advisor from an amateur is little more than a few officially administered multiple-choice tests.

Learning the details of personal finance can be intensive and demanding, but the basics are available to anyone with opposable thumbs.

For starters, you don’t merely throw money into the stock market and hope for the best. You don’t even read financial statements, invest in the stock market and hope for the best. You’ve got to look at when you’re going to die, and what you’re going to do before then.

If that sounds morbid, that’s what a formal investment policy is, for the most part. The way the professionals formulate and administer an investment policy, a client is supposed to sit down and list rules that the person in charge of her money then adheres to. But it can’t just be “I want to maximize my return and minimize my risk”, which describes every investor in the history of the universe. You need to be more specific, with regard to:

1. How old you are. Obviously, the more life you have ahead of you, the less conservative you can afford to be and the less calamitous it is if you lose everything.

2. How liquid you need to be. Having cash on hand and being wealthy aren’t always the same thing. Your average meth dealer has plenty of money in his wallet, and probably sleeps in a room that you wouldn’t feel comfortable entering without wearing a surgical mask.

In a famous story from the 1980s, baseball pitcher Rick Sutcliffe loaned $500,000 to Bruce Springsteen so he could close on a house. The Boss was at his apex of popularity at the time. He obviously wasn’t poor, but his money was tied up in investments that he couldn’t immediately get out of and convert to cash without paying a big penalty. Even if you have a billion dollars socked away in inflation-protected securities, you still need a few readily available bucks for day-to-day living.

In the end a formal investment policy will begin with something like this, only written in legalese and incorporating a service fee that’ll eat up part of your principal:

  • I’m a 25-year old woman. I have no kids, and thus smaller expenses than a mother would. Also, I live with my boyfriend, so my expenses are even less than they’d be if I was living alone. We rent a townhome, while we’re waiting to build up equity to buy a house.
  • I make $40,000 in annual salary. After taxes and expenses, I can save around $10,000 a year.
  • My 401(k) is worth $2,500, but I don’t even know what it’s invested in and wouldn’t mind finding something a little more aggressive.
  • I live in Chicago, which means I’m paying a relatively high cost of living. We want to get married and move to Nebraska, where the people are friendlier and everything’s cheaper.
  • My job is unfulfilling but secure. It’s so secure that I know what I’ll be making for the next 5 years if I stay in it. I’m willing to invest in volatile stocks rather than super-safe T-bills if it means having a chance to reach my goals more quickly.
  • Oh yeah, my goals. I want my investments to clear $75,000 a year when I turn 65, tax-free, and continue to until I die.
  • I don’t have any dependents and won’t, so I don’t care about leaving a will.

You almost want to do this backwards, starting with the answer, and then work your way back to the questions. “I want a principal of $x, and an annual cash flow of $y. How much do I have to save, how hard to I have to work, what kind of return on my investments do I need to make this happen?”

You should be able to do this yourself – ask the right questions, and give yourself honest answers. And don’t limit yourself. Start big. Don’t designate the summer villa in Provençe as either achievable or unachievable – it’s simply a goal that you can devise a plan to reach, or not. The same goes for the 4 kids you want to have or the kitchen you want to renovate.

Let’s take the kitchen renovation. You shop around and figure that putting in new appliances, wall tiles, wooden floors with a decorative inlay and an island will cost you $10,000.

Sure, you could take it out of your available cash and pay for it today. But if you’re the woman from our example, you just wiped out your entire savings and had better hope that no unforeseen expense finds you.

If you’re willing to wait 9 months, you can invest $5,000 of that $10,000 in what you believe to be an undervalued stock. You can continue saving your salary at your current rate, which would net you another $7500. The stock might gain 20%, which means that the redone kitchen would make a far smaller dent in your nest egg then than it would now.

Some people choose to place such expenses on their credit cards and pay 19% interest on them until the end of time. Others like to do some calculations first. You can probably figure out which is the better idea.

**This article is featured in the Yakezie Carnival September 25, 2011**

GUEST POST: Lose Control of Your Cash? Avoid a Lawsuit by Controlling Your Debt Situation

Almost daily, we get solicited by people wanting to write guest posts for us. Testament to our importance, we guess. 99% of those solicitations don’t make it past the “show-this-email-to-each-other-and-laugh” stage. But occasionally a competent one makes it through the obstacle course. This one is from the magnificently christened Odysseas Papadimitriou, CEO of Card Hub, a major site for credit card offers and personal finance education. Mr. Papadimitriou has written for Forbes.com, TheStreet.com, The Huffington Post, CNBC, and U.S. News & World Report, so we’re honored to have him on board.

This post is on how to minimize the damage if you incurred debt. Yes, we at Control Your Cash will forever maintain that not getting crushed by debt in the first place is the result of simple choices you made years earlier. But still, a pound of cure is better than a ton of wage garnishment and harassing phone calls.

Credit card companies and debt collectors can be awfully intimidating, especially when you owe them money. However, no matter how much you owe or how delinquent you are in paying it back you still have rights. Certain debt collection techniques are, in fact, illegal. And, depending on your situation, there are a number of resources and options available to you. So, what should you do when encumbered by significant debt? Let’s find out.

Establish a Dialogue
While your instinct may be to lie low and hide from your creditors, starting a dialogue with your credit card company can make all the difference. So, if you start missing payments or have already charged-off on your credit card debt, pick up the phone. And remember, a person is on the other end of the phone, a person who likely gets yelled at for a good portion of the day. Explain your situation calmly and work at finding a mutually beneficial solution to the problem. After all, credit card companies would rather avoid the hassle of debt collections, and you most certainly don’t want to get sued. Just make sure not to agree to anything—and I mean anything—that is not part of a long-term plan you can realistically afford.

Eliminate the Possibility of a Lawsuit
In general, there are two types of agreements indebted and delinquent consumers can reach with their creditors directly (i.e. not through a court) that will not only eliminate the possibility of a lawsuit, but also get them on the road to being debt free. They are:

• Debt Management – This involves your creditor lowering your monthly payments by giving you a break on finance charges and fees in return for you agreeing to a long-term payment plan.
• Debt Settlement – Creditors often agree to forgive some debt in return for a customer paying down the rest of the amount owed in one lump sum. If you are having trouble making minimum payments, however, paying down a significant portion of what you owe at one time likely isn’t feasible.

Consult an Attorney
Though bankruptcy carries with it a weighty social stigma, it can actually be the best move in certain situations. Many bankruptcy attorneys offer free consultations as well, so why not listen to what one has to say? In general, the bankruptcy options available to you are as follows:

• Chapter 7: Provides for the court-supervised liquidation of your assets, the value of which is used to pay off your debt obligations. Information about this type of bankruptcy will remain on your major credit reports for 10 years from the date you file.
• Chapter 13: Involves establishing a three-to-five year payment plan, which is based on expected future earnings. Discharged (completed) Chapter 13 bankruptcies stay on your credit reports for seven years from the date you filed for bankruptcy. Non-discharged Chapter 13 bankruptcies (i.e. payment plans that you fail to abide by) will remain for 10 years.

Statute of Limitations
If all else fails it’s time to wait and hope not to get sued. Each state has its own statute of limitations for written contracts, which applies to things like credit card and loan agreements, and any failure to abide by such an agreement is therefore only relevant for 3-15 years from the date of your last payment. In other words, you can’t get sued for money owed after a certain point. Actually pardon me, a suit can still be brought, but it will be thrown out as long as your debt is time-barred (i.e. older than your state’s statute) and you make this clear to the court.

If you are unable to reach an agreement with your creditor and bankruptcy isn’t a good fit, still trying to pay down what you owe might therefore be inadvisable, since it will only extend the window for a lawsuit and your creditor ultimately won’t be satisfied.

Still, this doesn’t mean creditors won’t try to trick you into paying. The following is a list of things to keep in mind while you wait so as not to fall victim to shady debt collection practices and/or open yourself up to a lawsuit:

• Depending on your state, signing any statements promising to pay your debt or even acknowledging that you owe money will also reset the statute of limitations clock
• Debt collectors are legally barred from threatening a lawsuit unless one is actually under consideration
• Debt collectors may not contact you after a written request that they not do so or if you’ve made it clear that you have an attorney
• Debt collectors are not allowed to misrepresent your debt to credit reporting agencies

Given the risk involved, waiting out the statute of limitations should only be done as a last resort, and hopefully things will not even get to this point in your case.

**This article is featured in the Carnival of Personal Finance: Where does the Money Go? Edition**