What coverage should you get when renting a car? (I of II)

You know what the markup on this gut bomb is? EIGHT MILLION PERCENT.

 

As any savvy retailer knows, the basic products themselves aren’t the profit centers. The extras are. Otherwise appetizers, alcohol and desserts wouldn’t exist.

When you buy insurance on your personal vehicle, you have all the time you need to shop around and run numbers. When you buy insurance on a rental, you’re subject to a monopoly. Plus a clerk is staring at you, and another customer is waiting in line behind you; those are hardly the optimal conditions for making an informed, rational decision.

(Hey, what do you know? This boldfacing gimmick really works. Lots of eyes making their way down the page as we speak. What a fantastic idea. Should have done this months ago.)

The standard rental insurance policy is in zero-point green font on the back of the pink copy of a triplicate sheet that you’re not reading the back of anyway. You don’t want to spend any more time than you need to at a rental desk, and that goes double if you just got off a plane and have an inviting hotel room waiting for you. You just want to get out of there, especially if the alternative is reading paragraphs of legalese. So it’s tempting to just ask the clerk what every type of additional coverage means, then treat his non-binding oral descriptions as Gospel.

Don’t. Coverage can not only exceed the cost of the rental itself, it’s almost always redundant.

There are 17,756 possible 3-letter acronyms in the Roman alphabet. The car rental industry has a corresponding type of coverage for every one of them. Here’s what they are, and why they’re mostly useless. We’ll start with a couple of easy ones. Then on Friday we’ll show you where the car rental agencies do the most efficient job of separating you from your money:

LDW – Loss Damage Waiver (similar to its less encompassing cousin, Collision Damage Waiver, which is offered by some rental companies.) If you rent a car and someone steals it, or vandalizes it, or it gets in an accident, or hailstones fall on it, or it hits a pedestrian who survives and feels litigious, someone has to make good.

LDW is insurance, but the rental companies don’t call it that because they’re not licensed to sell insurance. They use the term “waiver” because when you agree to pay the extra $20 a day, the agency itself is waiving its right to charge you for damages.

We can sympathize with people who argue that LDW gives you peace of mind, which it does. But even peace of mind should submit to cost/benefit analysis. If someone offered you an all-inclusive lifetime medical policy, one that covered everything from standard office visits to trauma care, to all the Purinethol pills you could swallow, would you take the policy – if it cost $5 million?

If you drive, as you probably know if you drive, you have to have insurance. If you’re one of the few people who has a valid license with no existing insurance (certainly possible, if you live in downtown New York or Toronto or somewhere and gave up possessing a car), the rental agency can, and should, require you to buy LDW.

That leaves the 99+% of us who actually use our licenses, and whose primary insurance will cover us first. READ YOUR (primary insurance) AGREEMENT. People don’t like reading agreements. That’s why we have a subprime mortgage crisis in this country, a crisis created by homeowners.

If you temporarily transfer your State Farm or AAA or whomever coverage to your rental car, your deductible will still apply. Which is only fair, isn’t it? Causing damage, in CYC’s carefully ratiocinated opinion, is bad.

Of course, you need to think a little harder if the car you’re renting is vastly more expensive than the car you drive primarily. Say you rejected comprehensive coverage when you bought the policy to cover your 1986 Yugo. (Which makes sense. If a $1200 car incurs $1000 in damage, you should sell it to a junkyard.) But that leaves you exposed if you rent a Jaguar. Also, why the hell are you renting a Jaguar?

Yes, the LDW will cover you for such unremarkable mishaps as flat tires. But your rental vehicle comes with a spare, and most tire places will repair a flat for next to nothing.

SLI – Supplemental Liability Insurance

For $9 a day, give or take, this gives you up to $1 million in excess liability coverage. Above we listed scenarios, however unlikely, in which LDW might make sense. There’s no scenario in which SLI makes sense. If you’re not carrying enough liability insurance on your primary policy to begin with, the Enterprise counter isn’t the place to make a necessary lifestyle change. Instead of marking an X in the Hertz box, call your insurer and add the coverage on your main policy.

Presumably, you can live with a minor dent in a panel on your own Toyota Camry. But when you get a similar dent while driving a car from Alamo, they’re going to be less forgiving about it. Hence the deductible, previously alluded to. The likelihood of you incurring damage greater than your deductible during the brief period that you’re renting the car is small enough that you should play the odds and forgo the supplemental insurance. If it isn’t, then you’re a crappy driver and shouldn’t be renting a car (or getting insured) anyway.

If you think that’s bad, wait 48 hours. More financial skulduggery, and how you can combat it, Friday.

This article is featured in the following carnivals:

**Carnival of Financial Planning: Thanksgiving Edition**

**The Carnival of Financial Camaraderie #9**

**Top Personal Finance Posts of the Week-I Ate Way Too Much Edition**

Don’t shop for auto insurance before you know what you’re shopping for

"Don't worry, your homeowner's policy will cover me."

Q: Just bought my first car, at a price I’m happy with. I shopped around, took advantage of 0% financing, even remembered to walk away when the first dealer hardballed me. Christ, now I have to buy insurance?

A: Yes, even if you look both ways at every intersection and keep your hands perpetually at 10 and 2. If you’re going to operate a lethal piece of machinery, your state requires you to get covered. Considering you might cause hundreds of thousands in damages, better to pay $100 or $200 a month and let the insurer cut any six-digit check. Drive uninsured and you’re looking at fines of up to $1700, which isn’t exactly building wealth.

Q: I see Progressive commercials every day, they must be good. I’ll buy from them.

A: Don’t marry the first person you date. Compare rates at a clearinghouse like NetQuote. Don’t go to Insure.com, which looks like a clearinghouse but is owned by GEICO. Not that GEICO’s bad, but shop around.

Look, one insurer’s policy is basically identical to the next. The big differences are in the coverage limits and deductibles.

Q: Excuse me, “coverage limits”? “Deductibles”?

A: Oh, right. You’re a product of the American educational system and never learned this.

Your policy covers different types of scenarios (e.g. you injure someone, you wreck someone’s car) and part of your monthly bill goes to each.

About one-third of your policy is for bodily injury coverage, expressed as a pair of figures (e.g. $100,000/$300,000.) Which means if you injure someone, your policy pays up to $100,000 per injured person, $300,000 per accident. If you get sued, your legal fees are also covered up to the latter number. Coverage limits on this can range from $15,000/$30,000 to $300,000/$500,000. Obviously the greater your coverage, the more you pay. $100,000/$300,000 is a happy medium between underexposure and overkill.

Q: I asked you what a deductible is. Should I just go to someone else’s blog?

A: If you’re in a crash, it’s the designated amount you have to pay out before your insurance kicks in.

About another third of your policy goes toward collision insurance. Say you carry a $500 deductible here, and you cause $6000 in damage. The insurer pays $5500, you pay the rest. You choose your deductible – 0, $100, $250, $500, $1000. The higher it is, the cheaper your premia.

Q: So should I save money and assume I won’t get in an accident, or pay more so I can breathe more easily?

A: Say you pull out of a parking space and hit someone’s bumper, causing $377 worth of dents and scratches. If you have no deductible you pay nothing, but your rates will rise. In the same situation with a $500 deductible, you’ll pay the whole shot. You’re also probably not going to tell your insurer.

With a $0 deductible your rates will rise to the point where you’ll be out $377 anyway, the only difference being that it’ll take maybe a year instead of a day. Assuming you’re not the kind of person who balances a cell phone and a burrito on her lap while cruising in the left lane, get a $500 deductible. A $1000 deductible is too big a hit to pay if your car causes, say, $940 in damage, and a $250 deductible means you’ll be paying rates that are maybe 10% higher than if you carry a $500 deductible.

Q: If every other driver on the road is insured, I’m fine, right?

A: Millions of jackballs drive without enough (or any) insurance: estimates range as high as 25% of drivers in some states. There’s also a little thing called hit-and-run, too.

Given those odds, pay the extra $25 or so a year and get covered against bodily injury from un(der)insured drivers. $15,000/$30,000 is enough to cover your passengers, too. If you live in Illinois, Maryland or New York, this coverage is required anyway.

Q: Say I do hit someone. Does it make a difference if I hit an Escort rather than a Lexus?

A: Damn straight it does. After bodily injury and collision coverage, about half of the rest of your policy covers property damage. Plus legal defense if you need it. Get $50,000 worth, which should cover the price of most any car you decide to crash into.

Q: Anything else?

A: Cars don’t get damaged only in crashes. Your car could get stolen, hit by lightning, hit by a deer, or torched in a Los Angeles Lakers postgame riot. Get comprehensive coverage for this, with a $500 deductible. Comprehensive coverage costs around $100 a year. Some policies cover medical payments, too.

Q: Which I don’t need if I have health insurance, right?

A: No, you do. Not for yourself so much as for any other people in an accident. When lawyers chase ambulances, medical payments coverage is the first thing they go after. Again, this works out to a few dollars a month. Totally worth it.

Q: This is starting to sound pricey. Where can I save?

A: There are vast swaths of the average policy that a smart driver can live without. Don’t get uninsured property damage coverage, which covers damage an uninsured driver does to property other than your car. You only need this if you live on a traffic island or drive around with Ming vases strapped to your roof.

Q: So someone hits me and I’m covered under their policy. Then what? I still need my car, and it’s going to take a while to fix.

A: Check the box for rental reimbursement when you buy your policy. It costs twenty-something bucks a year – less than a day’s rental – and gets you a loaner for up to a month.

If you’re shopping for a new vehicle, first calculate how much insurance will cost. If you can’t decide between an Accord and a Hummer H2, don’t flip a coin. If insurance quotes on the one are double those of the other, get the Accord.

Q: Too late, I already bought. With 0% financing. Didn’t you see my first question?

A: Okay then, smart guy: that means you owe money, probably more than your car’s street value. What if your car gets totaled?

Q: Uh…I figured the lender eats it.

A: Then you’re an idiot. But if you had loan/lease coverage, you wouldn’t be.

If you owe $16,000 on a car that the insurer values at $14,000, loan/lease (“gap”) insurance makes up the difference. For like $3 a month. You can only go without this coverage if you drive something held together with baling wire and duct tape (or if you own the car outright, of course.)