Don’t Drown In Sunk Costs

This activity makes no sense. Unless the guy in the Oxfords is placing the penny down to see what cheap soul picks it up.

This activity makes no sense. Unless the guy in the Oxfords is placing the penny down to see which cheap soul picks it up.

 

It’s amazing how many people will congratulate themselves for such money-saving machinations as calling the cable or phone company to get their monthly bills reduced by a buck or two, yet won’t expend similar effort to save themselves tens of thousands. Here’s an example:

You borrowed $200,000 to finance your house 5 years ago at 6.57%, after putting 20% down. Should you refinance?

Yes.

30-year rates are now 3.47%, 15-year rates 2.84%.

Your balance should now be $187,124.51. (That’s right. After 5 years, 94% of your balance remains. Pretty impressive, huh? Sorry, but this is how interest works. It’s why you should be a lender.)

You can pay 6.57% on the $187,124.51 for the next 25 years, continuing to make monthly $1,273.36 payments. But if you refinanced, you’d pay:

$1,277.90 a month for the next 15 years. For an extra 4½ bucks a month, you could burn your mortgage a decade quicker. Would that be worth it?

Depends on how much refinancing costs are.

We’re assuming that your credit is good. If your credit isn’t good, refer to page 33 in Control Your Cash: Making Money Make Sense and treat consumer debt like the hantavirus that it is. If you’re carrying balances on your credit cards, balances that you pay the minimum on and don’t expect to pay off for years, dig deeper. You’re an individual, not a government. You can’t do this indefinitely, and better you endure brief sharp pain than enduring dull pain. In fact, you shouldn’t even be wasting your time reading blog posts. Go out and get a second job, and stop spending money beyond the essentials. Once you’ve done that, and you’ve eliminated your consumer debt, come back.

(Good. With those folks out of the way we can get down to business.)

So what are the costs of refinancing, anyway?

The largest expense is the loan origination fee, which will almost always be 1% of the new loan. $1,871.24.

Appraisal fee. The lender doesn’t want to refinance your lean-to at Windsor Castle prices. Call it another $500.

Inspection fee. Even if it is a lean-to, it needs to be habitable. Pencil in another $225 or so. You’ll also need a pest inspection. Maybe $50 if you live somewhere like North Dakota, $75 if you’re in Florida, The Palmetto Bug State. You might also need a flood certification, $75, to prove you live (or don’t) in a flood zone.

There are also credit reporting fees at around $150. Plus recording – formalizing and registering the transaction documents with your county assessor’s office or whomever. Call that $35.

Depending on which state you live in, a reprobate lawyer might need to get his piece of the action. $750 for attorney review, because reading a series of boilerplate documents requires someone with an advanced degree and a goodly amount of self-loathing.

There may be other fees too. When you ask your lender to quote a rate, make sure they include a breakdown of all closing costs, including the costs charged by any closing agent. Compare the interest rates of any “no-cost” refinance to one with costs. Lenders will usually increase the loan’s interest rate by 25-50 basis points to cover the costs not collected up front.

Tally it up, and that’s $3,681 for the privilege of paying another $230,022 over the next 15 years, instead of paying $382,008 over the next 25 years. An investment that pays 41-fold, maybe minus a few multiples for the accelerated payoff. Hopefully you don’t need to be convinced further that that’s a fantastic deal.

Last week we wrote Part I of how we manage to remain liquid, comfortable, and reasonably affluent in Year 5, maybe 6 of The Recession That Politicians Wouldn’t Let Wither. Some people thanked us for and were inspired by the first-person perspective. Others decried us as out-of-touch and haughty with no understanding of the world beneath us, Mitt Romneys in a sea of 47-percenters.

The secret to building wealth is that you don’t need to shoot superlatively high. Sure, Sergey Brin and Larry Page beat you to the idea of creating a search engine that could metastasize into an entire online ecosystem, where hundreds of millions of people willingly share personal information that can be monetized. Brin and Page are billionaires several times over, while you aren’t and never will be unless Obamanian/Bernankite hyperinflation becomes reality. Does that mean you should look for the next cosmically resonant opportunity instead, which simple probability dictates that you’ll probably fail at?

NO. There are other choices beyond aiming that high, and aiming small. Taking a few hours to save $152,000 over the period of a home loan is what people with a wealthy mindset do. The ones who don’t, don’t because it:

  • Is more involved than just picking up the phone and calling Verizon Wireless’s billing department.
  • Involves using the services of other people, some of them experts who charge fairly for those services.
  • Requires a little math.
  • Might result in nothing. (If there were less of a difference between current mortgage rates and what you’d borrowed at originally, for instance.)

Cursing the darkness might make you feel briefly better, but that’s not what we do here at Control Your Cash. Instead, we prefer to take aggressive, intensive steps to significantly increasing revenue (or significantly reducing expenses.) If you’re going to chase pennies, chase them tens of thousands at a time.

A Message To Financial Professionals

“Yeah, yeah. Keep talking. I’m listening.”

 

Specifically, ones who submit to the Carnival of Wealth.

Dude, look at you in your Paul Fredrick shirt and snappy tie. Nothing personal, but writing isn’t your forte. Either farm that out, or learn to communicate.

We received a post from Scott Skyles at Mortgage 1a for Monday’s CoW. It’s got a valid and helpful point or two, but expecting readers to mine them out of the dross that surrounds them was too much work. Plus Mr. Skyles finds some industry terms necessary to define, but not others, with no apparent consistency.

Instead of being just another entrant in the CoW, this warranted its own, follow-up post. Here’s our CYC version of Scott’s explanation of the difference between FHA vs. conventional mortgages, followed by the impenetrable original, followed by our comments.

Should you get a mortgage backed by the Federal Housing Association, or a conventional one not insured by the federal government?

With the latter, you’ll have to put up 1/5 of the purchase price. You can put up less, but you’ll have to pay something called private mortgage insurance every month until you’ve paid off 1/5 of the principal.

With an FHA loan, you can put down as little as 3½%. The tradeoff is that you still have to pay the FHA’s version of private mortgage insurance, either for 5 years or until you’ve paid off 22% of the appraised value – whichever comes later.

And now, Mr. Skyles’s original:

While conventional and FHA (Federal Housing Association) mortgages have some similarities, there are distinct differences between the two and it is important for anyone who is considering taking out a mortgage to understand the differences in order to borrow in a way that best suits their specific financial and home buying needs.

Conventional Mortgages

A conventional mortgage is defined as any type of mortgage that is not insured by the Federal Government. Conventional mortgages are offered by credit unions, banks, and mortgage companies and brokers. The largest secondary market organizations that offer conventional mortgages are Freddie Mac and Fannie May. Conventional mortgages will usually require a down payment of around 20 %, but in today’s real estate and mortgage market, there are programs that may allow for a lower down payment if the borrower meets certain qualifying criteria.

With conventional mortgages, borrowers that are allowed a lower down payment are required to pay private mortgage insurance, also known as PMI. Once their loan-to-value amount is under 80%, they are no longer required to pay PMI insurance. It sounds complicated, but it is actually quite simple, as the LTV can decrease as the mortgage is paid down, as well as if the value of the home increases during the length of the loan. Conventional mortgages also take a borrower’s credit very seriously. In today’s market, if a credit score has blemishes or considered a possible risk, their application could be turned down.

FHA Mortgages

The FHA is not a direct lender, so their terms and conditions differ as far as credit and insurance. They insure FHA- approved lenders, and they are very specific about their terms. They take a classic approach to lending and they do not offer boutique loans. FHA-approved lenders are restricted to offering fixed rate loans, and the adjustable rate mortgages that they do offer are very conservative, which allows home buyers to easily understand their mortgage terms and manage their payments and insurance accordingly. For the first five years of an FHA loan, the borrower is charged an insurance premium that is added to their monthly payment. This payment is required until the borrower’s LTV decreases by at least 78%.

The down payment required for an FHA mortgage can be as low as 3.5 %, and the lenders also make their final lending decision using the “old fashioned” standards. Credit is still a consideration, but an FHA lender will also consider employment and rental payment history as part of the borrower’s profile. They will also give the borrower a chance to explain why their credit score may be less than satisfactory. FHA lenders consider the whole package, and this can be very helpful for first time home buyers, as well as anyone who may have experienced a run of bad luck due to the troubled economy.

Making an Informed Decision

While conventional and FHA loans both offer reasonable terms, it is ultimately up to the borrower to decide on the best type of mortgage to suit their specific needs. Buying a home is a big step, and it is important for borrowers to be educated on their options before signing on the dotted line. First time home buyers may benefit by consulting with a financial expert who can advise them on the various specifics of the two mortgage programs, and it may also be helpful to consult with a knowledgeable real estate agent or broker. By taking the time to weigh out the differences, home buyers can make an informed decision on their borrowing options.

You still awake? Of course you aren’t.

We shrank that to 1/6 of its original size and didn’t lose anything. This is why most people find personal finance and related topics so freaking boring. Most of the people who fancy themselves experts in the field couldn’t convey a thought to save their lives.

Which is why you should buy our book. 326 easy-to-read and informative pages that start with the assumption that you’re smart and value your time, but that you know nothing about money. We start with your standard checking account, and by the time you get to the end you’ll know

  • How to do your taxes
  • How to do your taxes without getting screwed, which is something quite different
  • How to invest, buy stocks, buy mutual funds, buy a car, buy a house, finance house, and more
  • How to start your own business so that you’re not at the mercy of some soulless boss who will shove you out the door the moment you become less profitable than a replacement might be.

No interminable paragraphs, we promise. Order it on our site (link up and to the right) and we’ll throw in one of our killer ebooks, too.

The Ultimate Christmas Gift

Last year, American Express created a website that concentrated on personal finance: GetCurrency.com. They solicited writers from among the most prominent personal finance bloggers. We offered our talents, and the GetCurrency.com editors found our submissions wanting. Meanwhile, they’d run posts from that earnest imbecile at The Simple Dollar who tells blatant lies about how his 4-year-old has started a college fund.

As 2011 enters the home stretch, guess what? Control Your Cash is going better than ever. As for GetCurrency.com, here’s a recent screenshot:

Schadenfreude, and it feels so good…

So here it is again, our annual post about the best possible Christmas gift. We recommend this gift as suitable for giving to just about any individual or business. Except for GetCurrency.com; for them we’d go with a cemetery plot and a gravestone. Season’s freaking Greetings. 

From a utilitarian perspective, giving gifts makes no sense. Generally speaking, you buy gifts for people who are likely to buy you gifts – hence the term “exchanging”. Receive a gift from someone you had no intention of buying anything for, and you’re selfish and inconsiderate. Do the opposite and you’re a sucker. And if you do buy something for someone who buys something for you, custom dictates that the gifts can’t be of disparate value: hence the ludicrous practice of removing price labels. After all, nothing ruins the joy of receiving a thoughtful and apposite gift than finding out the donor spent too little on it.

Think about it: you spend money to get people things that you hope they’ll like. If they don’t, you’ve wasted your time and resources. Thus the most useful possible gift is the one perfectly adaptable one: cash. But again, the suitability of cash runs into the brick wall of decorum. ‘Tis the season to be gauche. And again, if the recipient adopts the same logic about gift-giving, you end up exchanging cash for cash. Reduced to its fundamentals, the transaction is easy if quotidian: instead of you buying me a $150 gift and me buying you a $160 one, I should just give you $10. Then we can spend the next year discussing how I’m tacky and you’re cheap.

If you’re the parent of a young adult, or otherwise have someone in your life whose net worth isn’t yet where yours is, here’s a mutually beneficial idea for a decidedly American gift that isn’t cash: the next best thing, credit.

The average college graduate receives that bachelor’s degree with a 5-digit Sallie Mae obligation. As for the prudent and responsible students who manage to graduate with no or minimal student loans, doing so usually means there’s hardly enough money remaining to create any kind of nest egg. The wealth-building years have begun in earnest, but there’s almost nothing to lay a foundation with. Renting an apartment for the next few years (an investment with a guaranteed rate of return of -100%) wipes away much of the equity a young person could be building.

If you can afford it, lend your upwardly mobile kid enough to cover the down payment on a modest little domicile. Even buying the tiniest of townhomes gives him or her the opportunity to build equity, and to exercise the care and consideration for one’s things that renters have no incentive to.

Say you find an $80,000 condo that requires a 20% down payment to avoid private mortgage insurance costs. Financing the remaining $64,000 at today’s 3.40% 15-year rates means your kid would write monthly checks for $454.39, which makes far more sense than spending $800 on a larger rental house in a fancier part of town.

Remember, this isn’t a gift in the traditional sense. As the giver, you’re expecting something in return – regular payments, with interest. If you can give your kid a 100-basis point break on market rates, she could pay back that $16,000 loan back to you in $105.93 monthly installments. Which should be pretty easy to do, especially if she’s collecting rent from a roommate. Of course, we’re assuming she’ll be making gradually more money throughout the life of her concurrent loans.

The real “gift” in this situation is something intangible but vital: an introduction to real-world finance, and a chance to exercise responsibility. It’s the ideal meeting of a recipient whose ambitions outweigh her wherewithal, and a donor with the ability to make the recipient’s transition into the world of commerce run a little more smoothly.

So for a close loved one who’d stand to benefit from the gesture, don’t “give” a gift. Lend something instead. That way you can help foster a sense of ownership and responsibility, which beats a trinket or a consumable any day of the week.

**This article is featured in the Carnival of Personal Finance #341: Christmas in Australia Edition**